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Project:
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Skaal-tel's All in Oneder Helmet Project - Part 1 |
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Guest Author:
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Skaal-tel
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Date:
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April 8th, 2004
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Click image for larger view
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Click image for larger view
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I went and bought an extension cord, some knick-knack drawer modules, a multimeter and a 50 cent bag of
screws. I set the multimeter on the back of the helmet, traced the outline onto some masking tape and
proceeded to break out the Dremel. I used regular re-enforced cutting discs during this process and
noticed that the fiberglass exterior shell was much harder to cut than I expected. The material was much
softer than 14 gauge WW2 steel and I was pleased that I didn't originally end up with the NATO helmet
for this project. The helmet consists of layers and layers of fiberglass and maybe sawdust or something
similar. It burns often and really produces a foul smell which stinks up the house. The material was
easy to work with and I could easily use a sanding drum or wood files to clean up my cuts and test fit
the multimeter. I used some small files as the remaining step to make sure that everything would fit
just right. The SMC network router that I planned on using will be covered later on in Part 2 of this article.
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Click image for larger view
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Click image for larger view
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I used four sets of screws in order to mount some brackets that would hold the multimeter in place. I
drilled additional holes in the top of the multimeter above the battery mount as well as on the bottom
below the PCB. In order to create a theme for the rest of the project, all the nuts used were regular
motherboard stand-offs. The motherboard stand-offs fit the mounting screws perfect and have an octagonal
shape that I can grab with a wrench or a ratchet. One larger hole was created for the location of the
extension cord that I would later add to the project. The extension cord has 2-ports on both sides and
I would use one side for inside portion of the project to provide power for the power supply. The opposite
side would be used for a LAN party setup and serve as a replacement power bar. While making some
initial cuts, I also sliced in some holes for the LED tester and 2-position switch.
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stripped P4 connector
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LED 2-position toggle switch
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I salvaged an old P4 power connector from an old PSU and removed all of its wires. Modeling putty was
then used to cover the middle portion of the pin holes. The goal was to keep separation between the two
sets of pin holes. The right hole on each set of the pin holes would be set to positive. I would use a
DPST switch and two outer wires to receive voltage, right for 2.2v and left for 3.6v using red and blue
LEDs. The switch was salvaged from an old CCFL fan inverter kit. I always wanted the light on, so I
hacked out the switch and PCI bracket. The little screws just reach through the fiberglass and once
painted will look very slick. The P4 connector was placed in the mounting hole to confirm that it would
remain stationary.
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Error processing SSI file
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Error processing SSI file
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