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Product:
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Compuvision DIY Water Cooling Equipment |
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Price:
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Assembled Via Aqua 1300 - $52 (CAN) / $37 (U.S)
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Price:
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Swiftech Pump Relay Kit - $32 (CAN) / $23 (U.S)
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Price:
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HWLabs Black Ice Pro - $76 (CAN) / $55 (U.S)
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Price:
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Swiftech HydrX Coolant - $4.50 (CAN) / $3.25 (U.S)
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Price:
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Dye-Lite - Red 2oz - $16 (CAN) / $11 (U.S)
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Supplied By:
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Compuvision
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Author:
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BigDaddy
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Date:
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July 26th, 2002
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Click image for larger view
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Click image for larger view
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For the average water cooled system, distilled or de-ionized water is the coolant of choice. Of course,
if sub-zero cooling is a goal, then coolant with a lower freezing point than water is an obvious requirement.
Distilled water is a good coolant because it has excellent heat transfer qualities, is inexpensive, and
is a non-conductor. Unless you plan on flushing your system on a monthly or even weekly basis, some other
additives will need to be added to the coolant mix.
Primarily, additives serve two main purposes. The can augment the performance of the coolant as a heat
conduit, and they can add some aesthetic appeal to the case design. From a performance standpoint, there
are several products on the market which can increase the thermal properties of the coolant. This may be
by lowering its freezing point or by decreasing its surface tension, to name only two. What is surface
tension and why is it beneficial to decrease it? Take a clear glass, pour water in it, and then look at
it with the water level at your eye level. You’ll notice that the water is slightly higher at the sides
of the cup than in the middle. It almost looks as if the water is "grabbing" the edges of the cup. That
is a physical demonstration of surface tension. Now, why would a decrease in surface tension be a good
thing in a water cooled system? Just like in the example of the cup, coolant will tend to "grab" the
sides of the tubing walls, creating two layers of coolant; fast moving coolant running though the middle
of the tubes/blocks/radiator and slower moving coolant clinging to the sides. In this scenario, heat
transfer is inefficient, as a lot of the coolant moving through the system barely gets any heat transfer,
and the coolant that does is not pulled away from the water block quickly enough to maximize cooling. By
lowering the surface tension using an additive, this effect of surface tension can be reduced.
Other performance issues also include the fact that in just about every water cooled system out there,
there are mixed metals, usually copper and aluminum. Since the water acts as a catalyst between the two
metals, corrosion becomes an issue that needs to be addressed. Glycol (a.k.a common antifreeze) has
excellent anti-corrosion qualities, but decreases some thermal properties of water and increases surface
tension. As such, you’ll typically find a mix of distilled water, glycol and a performance additive in
most water cooled rigs.
Also, since warm water is a natural breeding ground for microbes of all kinds, an anti-algae/anti-biological
agent is also a good recommendation for users who might only flush their systems once or twice a year.
There are a few different additives being employed in water cooled systems. Swiftech includes a product
called HydrX coolant, while some users employ products from the automotive industry such as Redline
Water Wetter or Royal Purple’s Purple Ice. Purple Ice claims that it provides corrosion resistance and
decreases surface temperatures, as well as being a lubricant for seals in water pumps. HydrX is listed
as an anti-corrosion, anti-algae agent that improves heat transfer. Having never worked with Water
Wetter personally, I can only quote the manufacturer by saying that it is principally designed for
increased thermal transfer and as an anti-corrosion agent. For the test setup, I decided to work with
my de-ionized water and the recommended dosage of HydrX extreme duty coolant.
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Click image for larger view
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Let’s face it, water cooling looks just as cool as it performs, and sometimes you just have to turn
those few feet worth of tubing into an eye grabber. Water cooled rigs scream for UV sensitive modifications,
and UV dyes make an excellent addition to a modified case.
Since HydrX is mildly UV reactive, I didn’t include the Red UV Dye in the test rig. In daylight, the
coolant had a light purple colour to it, but under UV light, the green and red mixed to give a n
ot-so-appealing brownish look. For testing, I hooked up an Ehiem 1046 pump with an Innovatek reservoir.
A little bit of Purple Ice and a couple of drops of red UV dye and voila! Ultra violet goodness. Red
under UV light always tends to go pink, so most users will likely go with a blue, orange or yellow UV
dye. For that extra mile, there’s always the UV dye which is transparent under normal light, but blue
under UV light.
Power Requirements:
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Click image for larger view
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Unless you get one of Eheim’s latest DC centrifugal pumps, chances are you’ve got an AC pump that needs
something your PC power supply just can’t put out 115 VAC. There are a few options out there to simplify
this process. The easiest choice is to route the power cable outside the PC chassis and plug it into an
AC source. While this is a simple solution, users who power down their systems will have to manually
power down the pump as well. A second solution is to include a power supply that incorporates an AC
socket, such as the Vantec Stealth or ION
Series Power Supplies that MTB has reviewed in the past. Since AC power is only available when the PC
is powered up, the pump and the system start up simultaneously.
For a true "factory-installed" look and feel, the ideal solution is a solid state relay. The relay is
extremely straightforward in principle, essentially, it is a switch which turns on when it detects DC
power from the power supply, and alternately off when DC current is no longer present. An AC socket is
wired to the switch, and a standard AC power cord connects the system to an available power source. This
does require some case modification and possibly some wire striping and crimping, but does offer a
seamless look and feel. Swiftech offers its own simple pump relay kit which can be added to any custom
water cooling setup.
Since the test system includes a Sunbeam Acrylic Case,
I decided to forgo installing the relay, especially since the acrylic at the rear of the case is twice
as thick, and the custom I/O shield doesn’t allow for an optimal placement. Case owners: don’t limit
the socket installation to the rear of your PC chassis, if the rear panel of your power supply has
enough room; mount the socket there for a centralized power source location.
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