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Case, Power Supply, Fan Reviews
  Product:     Compuvision DIY Water Cooling Equipment  
  Price:     Assembled Via Aqua 1300 - $52 (CAN) / $37 (U.S) 
  Price:     Swiftech Pump Relay Kit - $32 (CAN) / $23 (U.S) 
  Price:     HWLabs Black Ice Pro - $76 (CAN) / $55 (U.S) 
  Price:     Swiftech HydrX Coolant - $4.50 (CAN) / $3.25 (U.S) 
  Price:     Dye-Lite - Red 2oz - $16 (CAN) / $11 (U.S) 
  Supplied By:     Compuvision
  Author:     BigDaddy
  Date:     July 26th, 2002

Coolant & Additives:

Compuvision DIY Water Cooling Equipment
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Compuvision DIY Water Cooling Equipment
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For the average water cooled system, distilled or de-ionized water is the coolant of choice. Of course, if sub-zero cooling is a goal, then coolant with a lower freezing point than water is an obvious requirement. Distilled water is a good coolant because it has excellent heat transfer qualities, is inexpensive, and is a non-conductor. Unless you plan on flushing your system on a monthly or even weekly basis, some other additives will need to be added to the coolant mix.

Primarily, additives serve two main purposes. The can augment the performance of the coolant as a heat conduit, and they can add some aesthetic appeal to the case design. From a performance standpoint, there are several products on the market which can increase the thermal properties of the coolant. This may be by lowering its freezing point or by decreasing its surface tension, to name only two. What is surface tension and why is it beneficial to decrease it? Take a clear glass, pour water in it, and then look at it with the water level at your eye level. You’ll notice that the water is slightly higher at the sides of the cup than in the middle. It almost looks as if the water is "grabbing" the edges of the cup. That is a physical demonstration of surface tension. Now, why would a decrease in surface tension be a good thing in a water cooled system? Just like in the example of the cup, coolant will tend to "grab" the sides of the tubing walls, creating two layers of coolant; fast moving coolant running though the middle of the tubes/blocks/radiator and slower moving coolant clinging to the sides. In this scenario, heat transfer is inefficient, as a lot of the coolant moving through the system barely gets any heat transfer, and the coolant that does is not pulled away from the water block quickly enough to maximize cooling. By lowering the surface tension using an additive, this effect of surface tension can be reduced.

Other performance issues also include the fact that in just about every water cooled system out there, there are mixed metals, usually copper and aluminum. Since the water acts as a catalyst between the two metals, corrosion becomes an issue that needs to be addressed. Glycol (a.k.a common antifreeze) has excellent anti-corrosion qualities, but decreases some thermal properties of water and increases surface tension. As such, you’ll typically find a mix of distilled water, glycol and a performance additive in most water cooled rigs.

Also, since warm water is a natural breeding ground for microbes of all kinds, an anti-algae/anti-biological agent is also a good recommendation for users who might only flush their systems once or twice a year. There are a few different additives being employed in water cooled systems. Swiftech includes a product called HydrX coolant, while some users employ products from the automotive industry such as Redline Water Wetter or Royal Purple’s Purple Ice. Purple Ice claims that it provides corrosion resistance and decreases surface temperatures, as well as being a lubricant for seals in water pumps. HydrX is listed as an anti-corrosion, anti-algae agent that improves heat transfer. Having never worked with Water Wetter personally, I can only quote the manufacturer by saying that it is principally designed for increased thermal transfer and as an anti-corrosion agent. For the test setup, I decided to work with my de-ionized water and the recommended dosage of HydrX extreme duty coolant.

Compuvision DIY Water Cooling Equipment
Click image for larger view
Compuvision DIY Water Cooling Equipment
Click image for larger view
 
Let’s face it, water cooling looks just as cool as it performs, and sometimes you just have to turn those few feet worth of tubing into an eye grabber. Water cooled rigs scream for UV sensitive modifications, and UV dyes make an excellent addition to a modified case.

Since HydrX is mildly UV reactive, I didn’t include the Red UV Dye in the test rig. In daylight, the coolant had a light purple colour to it, but under UV light, the green and red mixed to give a n ot-so-appealing brownish look. For testing, I hooked up an Ehiem 1046 pump with an Innovatek reservoir. A little bit of Purple Ice and a couple of drops of red UV dye and voila! Ultra violet goodness. Red under UV light always tends to go pink, so most users will likely go with a blue, orange or yellow UV dye. For that extra mile, there’s always the UV dye which is transparent under normal light, but blue under UV light.

Power Requirements:

Compuvision DIY Water Cooling Equipment
Click image for larger view
 
Unless you get one of Eheim’s latest DC centrifugal pumps, chances are you’ve got an AC pump that needs something your PC power supply just can’t put out 115 VAC. There are a few options out there to simplify this process. The easiest choice is to route the power cable outside the PC chassis and plug it into an AC source. While this is a simple solution, users who power down their systems will have to manually power down the pump as well. A second solution is to include a power supply that incorporates an AC socket, such as the Vantec Stealth or ION Series Power Supplies that MTB has reviewed in the past. Since AC power is only available when the PC is powered up, the pump and the system start up simultaneously.

For a true "factory-installed" look and feel, the ideal solution is a solid state relay. The relay is extremely straightforward in principle, essentially, it is a switch which turns on when it detects DC power from the power supply, and alternately off when DC current is no longer present. An AC socket is wired to the switch, and a standard AC power cord connects the system to an available power source. This does require some case modification and possibly some wire striping and crimping, but does offer a seamless look and feel. Swiftech offers its own simple pump relay kit which can be added to any custom water cooling setup.

Since the test system includes a Sunbeam Acrylic Case, I decided to forgo installing the relay, especially since the acrylic at the rear of the case is twice as thick, and the custom I/O shield doesn’t allow for an optimal placement. Case owners: don’t limit the socket installation to the rear of your PC chassis, if the rear panel of your power supply has enough room; mount the socket there for a centralized power source location.

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